Laguna de Apoyo

An impromptu day trip yesterday landed us in Laguna de Apoyo, an extinct volcano crater lagoon nestled between Granada and Masaya not more than a 45-minute drive from where we live in Managua, therefore, perfect for day trips or weekend get-aways. Although the rim of the lake is populated by various restaurants and resorts, we have so far only patronized 2. Norome Villas Resort (check updated rental prices here) and The Monkey Hut.

There's 2 ways to enjoy the lagoon: as a breathtaking view from the Mirador in the town of Catarina or in partaking of what the 'blue lagoon' has to offer from the various resorts down at the edges of the lagoon itself.

The Monkey Hut - Although equally enjoying the pristine setting of Lago de Apoyo, is considered more rustic compared to Norome. A picnic place (that nevertheless offers lodgings) more than a full-blown service resort is more favorable for day trips where one can bring picnic baskets and for $6.00 per person can enjoy all the facility of the place like Kayaks, a row boat (partially decommissioned for the moment - use at you own risk as it sinks after 10 minutes of use due to holes), floating tubes, kitchen (including condiments!!!), bbq grill and the biggest offering of course...a day's frolick in the warm lagoon. Best I think, is that you can bring your pet dog/s. A real family-friendly place. The relaxed atmosphere and reasonable dormitory and cabaña rental prices make it a favorite for backpackers as well.

Clockwise: V & M kayaking with Mancha; the parents catching up with each other; the girls having their own chat; T & H marvelling at the view from Monkey Hut's main veranda; the laid-back management staff of Monkey Hut (seriously...but kidding aside, very acommodating and friendly).

Nicaraguan furniture

As mentioned in my previous post, Masatepe is where one can find local furniture shops lining the streets. I went there to look for a 'Mimbre' (wicker) set for la terraza, below are some of my finds:

My choice would be the bottom-right photo (yes, I needed a model to see that), with D's help. They don't differ much from each other except in price and workmanship. This set costs around $C 13,000 (down from $C 15,000, after haggling), which is about $721.00 at today's exchange rate plus delivery charge of around $C200 and most likely, additional cost for a glass top for the center table to render it useful. I may also need to buy 2 rocking chairs (a favorite furniture here), in addition, to be able to host coffee or tea mornings for about 10 people. A rocking chair here depending on the kind of wood used and material for the seats, may cost anywhere between $200 - 400.

We have bought furniture from stores in Masatepe where our favorite would be one that's called Muebleria El Chele. This particular shop is 'supposedly' known for their workmanship in indoor furniture using hardwood.

Quality and price are sadly the 2 things that are not consistent here in Nicaragua (from my experience) where the term 'preferred customer' doesn't exist.....yet. Therefore, be prepared to haggle each time (regardless how many times you have bought from that store) because the mantra seems to be: a foreigner is a foreigner and will (or should) always pay (a lot) more. Eventually, one gets used to it and becomes second nature. It has never been a problem for me, coming from Asia where haggling is considered a sport, but when the price quoted is 50-100% more than what it's normally sold for, even I get uncomfortable.

My advise would be to go around and get a 'feel' of the prices before committing to anything and that goes for most of the purchases you would do here. You'd be amazed at how much the prices for the same item varies once you've been around.

If it's quality of wood, design and workmanship we're talking about, the best place in my opinion to buy from would be Simplemente Madera.....if money is no object, that is. Hmmmm, why do does it remind me of Scandinavian design...(?)

The week that was

So many things to share, not enough brain cells to process them all at once and less energy to put them in writing. I have been in a languid mood, to say the least, after coming back from the beach. I am in fact pushing myself to sit down and write, only to be able to say that there is indeed ONE thing that I have followed through with diligence, albeit intermittently....this Blog! I need a muse.

To tag the other topics properly and for coherence sake, except for the reason why we went to the beach so soon after summer vacation and the practical information regarding the beach club itself, let me just describe how my week went:

Gym

I joined the gym....after 12 years (it's true!!!) of procrastination and guilt in denying my body the exercise it needs. The last time I knowingly went somewhere to purposely stretch, move and sweat was to a taebo class back in the Philippines and only for 3 months (1 hour x 3x a week to me was already a lot). Even then, I would have excuses to miss some classes - I don't have time outside of work, finish a report, I had a headache or a party to go to (I took the evening sessions). My only other form of exercise was playing tennis....sometimes, and golf ...less than sometimes (too hot to walk 18 holes but wouldn't be caught dead (too young) riding a golf car).

When I stopped working, my excuses changed (depending where I was) too, of course. Expensive and too cold (Denmark), too far and too dangerous (Nairobbery, umm Nairobi, I mean). My excuses in Denmark held some truth while the ones in Kenya were obviously lame as the security situation there did not deter us from having an active social life. I don't have any valid reason not to go to the gym here in Nicaragua. I have plenty of time on my hands, nice temperature almost whole year round, reasonable gym fees (except for Club Terraza where membership starts at around $10,000 + monthly dues) ranging from $20-50 a month.

As I'm a sucker for recommendations and a firm believer that exercise should be fun, an excuse to meet new friends and should not be a tough regimen (unlike: 'give me 50 soldier' - I'm a lame duck, I know) and least of all, a financial burden, Club Terraza is out of the question - even if I live only a few blocks from the place. It is afterall a club but apparently a very cliquish one at that.

Finally, after almost 2 years of (non) looking, I found the gym I wanted to join, courtesy of my fave dama and salsa classmate, S. Studio-Gimnasio Illusiones that can be found at:

Frente a la UNI (In front of UNI)
Tel No.: (505) 277 5557

I swear, that's the listed address, UNI being a well known university here in Managua. I know how to get there from my house and at the risk of coming by my place first before arriving there, if interested, call them at their listed number above for specific directions.

I like the atmosphere in Illusiones, cozy and friendly, like all other Pellas owned companies (i.e Casa Pellas - car dealership; Vivian Pellas - Hospital; etc). Although modest in size, Illusioness offers many different types of exercise (aerobics, rythm, gym, step, belly dancing (?) Flamenco ) and dance classes (ballet, jazz and jazz for teenagers) with a modest but sufficiently equipped gym.

Price ranges from $35-50 monthly depending on which combination of classes you want to take. I took the the $50 a month to include everything except jazz and ballet, just to be flexible. The belly dancing poses a dilemma as that's one part of me (on top of a host of others) I wanted to lose in the process...less to jiggle with. FYI, they give a $10 /month discount if you sign-up for the $50 combo for 3 months ($120 total). If there's anything that will make sure I consistently attend classes (right now, besides the gym, I attend step and aerobics) is ......advance payment.

Influenza

There is an epidemic going around, influenza, as La Prensa reports, which has claimed the lives of a significant number of children. Known as the 'flu', I think and 'trangkaso' in the Philippines. This is one virus that, as we know it back home, never leaves the house until everyone has been struck by it. A tropical virus, I surmise, that lasts for 5 - 7 days, accompanied by muscle pain, fever, throat infection and phlegm. T has been struck by the virus (along with some of his colleagues at work). I myself have had it many times before back in the Philippines and normally doesn't pose any real danger except to undernourished toddlers or younger and very old people (pneumatic complications). Cure normally consists of Paracetamol, a lot of rest (staying in bed), sleep and loads of water (there is real danger in dehydration specially for young children).

So, 5 days babysitting so far (including today).

Catarina, San Juan de Oriente, Masatepe, Lago de Apoyo, Masaya Revisited

It's been awhile since I've been to these places, no more than 30 mins away from Managua. We have a new spouse (D) in town at the Danish Embassy and since I was looking for outdoor furniture, I thought it was a good time to take her along. For furniture (whether indoor or outdoor), I really only needed to go to Masatepe to see what they have (anything new), new supplier to order from (my own design) or how much they go for at the moment. But since I was taking D with me, why not make a sight-seeing trip out of it. These are the same places I take visiting relatives and friends to for a half day's trip.

Catarina, a town one will have to pass through going South of Managua (alternative routes are the Granada Highway and Jinotepe). Catarina has a highway that connects to the Pan-American Highway that eventually brings you to Rivas (where most of the Pacific beach resorts are) and all the way to the Costa Rican border (about 4 hours away from Managua). Some call it the 'hell road' (besides Diriamba) because of the potholes (centimeters apart) that littered the semi-paved and truck abused road. A really bad condition for such an important thoroughfare. Amazingly, this is a thing of the past (like 2 months ago past) as it has now been paved and therefore a breeze to traverse.

Catarina is where one can buy various plants for the garden and all other accoutrement to beautify the same (where I got my bird bath and ethnic inspired plant holders). It is also in this town (near the iglesia - church) where one finds the 'Mirador' over looking Lago de Apoyo (Lake Apoyo), A mere 20 mins from Managua.

Masatepe, the furniture mecca of Nicaragua.

Masaya, is the town where one can find the Mercado de Artisania, everything Nicaraguan, from hammocks to cigars, leather and woodwork - all in one place. This is a very touristy place as these products are brought to Masaya from all over Nicaragua so make sure you haggle.

San Juan de Oriente is only worth going to if you are passing through Catarina, anyway. It is a block of stores selling artesanias of mostly clay. you will find the usual clay wind chimes (god forbid the winds of Nicaragua actually touch them as they will break and pulverize - I hang mine against the wall....inside the house - pretty to behold). Again, haggle as if your life depends on it.

Mirador de Catarina (shown in an old photo - taken Dec 2006 - on the right) is where one can have a breath taking view of Lago de Apoyo. On higher ground, therefore pleasant temperatures all year round. We make sure that we are there near lunchtime to partake of lunch while enjoying the tranquil sight of the Lake.

As for the route itself, I normally do it in this order:

1. Masaya Highway (Carretera a Masaya - Highway to Masaya)
2. Masatepe (off Catarina Road)
- go back to Catarina Road
3. San Juan de Oriente (off Catarina Road)
-go back to Catarina Road and turn back towards
4. Catarina
5. Mirador
6. Masaya

Ladies' Coffee Morning (Danish Embassy spouses)

It's not as formal as the title implies nor is it a regular thing. It's one of those times when you say, let's meet up one of these days and have coffee. Well, this one pushed through. It was actually G's idea, our ambassador's wife (a formidable woman in her own right), held at D's place (remember the new comer?) and attended by 5 people, yes, we are one of the smaller (only by number of expats and not as a donor - I believe Denmark is one of the top 3 donor countries in terms of aid to Nicaragua) embassies here in Managua, after Norway, Switzerland, Iceland and Luxembourg. It was cozy and fun and hopefully becomes more regular than it is right now.

I remember when I first came and inquired about meeting the other spouses (which was understandably, first and foremost on my list), I was asked which group I wanted to join...the English or the Spanish group(??????) I thought I would do well as I still spoke a higher degree of fluency of danish at that time, in a Danish or English group (until I can chit-chat in Spanish, of course) ...but there were only 5 of us altogether with 2 of them men. Why the divide? Language does play an important role in one's social life here in Nicaragua.

For the curious, let me just breakdown the current spouses' language prowess:

G - Danish, English, Spanish - fluent
D - Danish, English - Fluent; Spanish - In the process of learning but picking it up fast (she just got here)
I - Originally hails from Argentina but is a Finnish citizen - is fluent in Spanish, Finnish and English
M - Although not a spouse (she's the expat - her spouse is from Chile and is fluent in both Spanish and Danish) is fluent in all 3 languages like G
And then there's me who speaks this and that but can better express myself if I can use all of them.....in one sentence, sigh.

English (all Danes speak english but not so many Latinos do) being the language we had in common helped...so, english it was.

Summer 2008 Vacation - Miami Beach

Miami beach was a fluke, an unplanned destination - It wasn't until we found out that a cruise is planned according to cruise schedules and not on our availability (clueless cruisers) did we realize that we're stuck in Miami for 4 days with nowhere to go.

We asked for travel advise from friends who've been there and got a redundant reply...shopping, the beach, hitting the overcharging bars and discos. To complicate matters and due to late booking we did not manage to get a hotel in South Beach (SoBe) - everything was fully booked. Not wanting to risk sleeping on the street or worse, a hotel for twice its regular peak season price (grimace).

To make a long story short, we stayed at the North Beach (NoBe) area at the only available hotel that includes breakfast in their room rates (we didn't want to wake up having to think about where to get our coffee, at the very least). Apologies that I cannot be more specific with regards to the rates as we got all these in a neat but not so little package.

NORTH BEACH, MIAMI

Hotel: Marco Polo Beach Resort (Ramada), North Beach Miami - 19201 Collins AveSunny Isles Beach, FL 33160

A rather homey hotel....in the sense that it smells like home and that is if you fry a lot of fish at home. There's a stench to the place that is neither pleasing nor revolting. At the very least, it smells as stale as a home no one's lived in for awhile, make that a long while. The gym and the spa as well, even though situated in a separate building, also carried a stench but more sewer like. I swear i ran out of the steam room after a few seconds of being there and I have a strong stomach for smells. Except for that, it was perfectly fine as like any old hotel, the rooms have been constructed twice the size of new ones today. We had pleeeenty of room for our luggage, the 2 queen size beds it came with, a fridge, a microwave oven, a coffee maker and an ironing board and iron. It is after all touted to be a beachfront business hotel.

Only one caveat, even if you have pre-paid, you still need to pay extra $8.00 per day (clearly an unpleasant surprise) per room (we had 2) as 'resort fee' that covers access to the beach and use of the pool, a pool we only used for 1 day in our 4 day stay, while the beach can be accessed by the public from outside on both sides of the hotel, go figure.

The hotel may be worn out but the view from the rooms more than made up for it, besides, we were out most of the time, if not on the beach, in SoBe or the Aventura mall and was only there to sleep.

Breakfast was nothing to write home about. Bagel, bagel and more bagel, a lot of cream cheese and peanut butter, some yogurt, importantly coffee, a couple of fruit varieties, milk and juices (definitely not fresh). Not Southbeach (the diet) but it did tide us over until we can get to Denny's or some other place.

The beach fronting the hotel is really nice (I heard they were one of the first hotels in the area when everybody else was crowding SoBe - hmmm there is a 70s feel to the hotel).

Quiet, peaceful and not so touristy. Most of the people staying at the hotel stayed near the pool, so we practically had the beach to ourselves the whole time.

There were places on the beach that were marked with yellow tapes, not unlike those they use in detective movies to mark the crime scene. It meant that there were turtle eggs there and was therefore off limits. The beach up north being quiet did not mean less exciting. There was a day when we were evacuated from the water, together with 6 other beaches due to something or other, like the proximity of lightning, but mostly about algaes (the water was being tested at that time), complete with horns blaring, sirens and hard-bodied lifeguards (conveniently stationed right in front of the hotel) going back and forth the beach to get everyone out of the water.

Not sure who mimicked who first, them or Miami Vice. Police cars were everywhere and I've seen about 4 different busts of one kind or another (traffic, drug, DUI, etc) in my 4 days stay.

Back to the hotel, the service was so-so, not much to speak of, specially at the front desk. The concierge was very helpful while the breakfast staff was very stressed (mostly Eastern Europeans).

Speaking of service, an unfortunate (uncalled for) incident happened 2 weeks after our first week of stay in Marco Polo. We went back to Marco Polo for one night from Orlando at the end of our trip to await our flight to Managua for the following day. Arriving from Orlando at midnight, we knew that there won't be time for us to use the hotel amenities between that time and running to the airport at 12nn. We therefore asked the guy at the front desk if the extra $8 per room fee can be waived. He said that it shouldn't be problem and told us to just request for it during check out. In the morning, at about 10 am, we skipped the hotel breakfast and headed straight to denny's for bacon, eggs and pancakes, a last hurrah, but before going out asked the front desk again about the 'resort fee' and was told the same (by a different person). When we finally checked out, the lady (another one, sigh) at the front desk said:'no, it's not possible' and Tim (calmly) repeated what the other 2 said (one happened to be there right beside her). She turned to the other person and gave her the 'if looks can kill' look and bellowed at T: 'NO, THEY CANNOT DO THAT, I'M THE MANAGER HERE!' I kid you not. I know this same lady from breakfast barking orders at the breakfast staff....why they are stressed, or worse, nervous - never would have thought that she was the hotel manager until she shouted for all the lobby to hear. T took her name: Mora Anderson. I don't think that is how a hotel manager should act, not only towards the customer but most importantly to her staff. You know what they say about power....We have been game about all these so far until she happened. Incidentally, I met a Filipina who works there (the first week of our stay) and we said hello. She told me that she only had 3 days to go because she quit, I didn't ask why. Now, I can only imagine it's not the happiest environment to be working in.

Places to go and see:
The best Pizza on this side of the beach: Pizzaz - a block away from Marco Polo (on the opposite side of the road) according to it's owner, which could very well be true as his tiny restaurant was packed with customers lining up for both take-out and dine-in, while the lone delivery guy kept going back and forth to deliver. T did say they make one of the best Calzones he's ever had and this guy knows his Calzone. Huge servings, reasonable prices - about $2 + tax for a humongous slice. Not knowing how huge the servings were we ordered a Calzone, a small Pepperoni and a small meat lover's pizza (+ drinks, about $45 in all)...turned out good for at least 6 - 8 persons.

Aventura Mall - 5 minute by bus - Miami Dade Transit Line S, ($1.50 adult; 0.75 child) from Marco Polo (The bus stops right in front of the hotel). We found the shops at this mall rather expensive compared to the shops in the SoBe area but they do have an interesting fast food area. Coming from Nicaragua, even fastfood Chinese looked exciting.

The Spanish Monastery - 16711 W Dixie HwyNorth Miami Bch, FL 33160 (Take the bus to Aventura Mall and from there take #3 (Dixie Highway). About a couple of blocks from the bus stop you will find the Monastery on your left.

Entrance Fee: $5 adult; $2 child - What's interesting about this Monastery originally built in Sacramenia in Segovia, Spain, named after a Cisterian monk Bernard of Clairvaux is that when William Randolph Hearst bought it in 1925, he had it dismantled stone by stone and shipped to the US.

Today, the monastery holds a church, a beautiful garden, has a museum and is popular among couples as a romantic wedding venue.

4 days is too short to include a visit to the Everglades and / or keywest, or so we thought at that time, so we just hung out in SoBe, ate and shopped on Lincoln and Washington and partied a bit on Ocean Drive.

SOUTH BEACH, MIAMI

The Beach (of course). Bring water and / or Soda to the beach and if planning to stay for a longer period, somthing to munch on. The kiosks on the beach sell small bottles of water for $3 and soda for $4. Miami has always been a transit point to us and therefore had no idea how it really looked like. I pictured beach front restaurants and bars - if more than 200 meters and crossing a street is considered beach front.

Ocean Drive - A given where all the bars and restaurants are. Don't miss the pricey (like everything else on Ocean Drive) Piña Colada at Ocean's Ten, one of the better ones we've had for a long time.

Art deco District - Hard to tell that you've arrived, unless you can

recognize buildings from the 60s or 70s. We didn't know that we've been walking within the district for more than 10 mins until we asked.

Washington and Collins Ave - For shopping and alternative dining. Collins is where you find the designer shops. From North Beach Take the S Downtown (about 55 mins travel time; runs every 20 mins) - $1.50 adult; $0.75 child - get off James St. and Collins Ave.

Jerry's Famous Deli - Walking 45 blocks can sure wet one's appetite. Don't miss Jerry's Famous Deli on Lincoln and Española Way, if big, juicy burgers topped with Swiss cheese and Jalapeños, enormous salads and refillable drinks is your cup of tea. Why 45 blocks? From 1st to 15th streets on washington, Lincoln and Ocean Drive, by my calculation is about that. Well, it felt like it anyway.

We still have no qualms staying in North Beach, in fact I liked being there better than Southbeach, and knowing what we know now maybe not in Marco Polo anymore.

Africa Breakfast Club Nicaragua Style

It's the first time since we arrived here that anyone has invited us to brunch. M & E is serving brunch at their place for 10 people tomorrow. I surmise that this will partly be E's farewell brunch for his close friends. He's leaving for another post in August but will have to say his goodbyes early because everyone will be out of the country in June & July for summer vacation.

We've met the most wonderful people in our Salsa and Tango class and the challenges in learning these oh so Latino moves has brought us as close as friends sharing a common burden can get - we see each other minimum twice a week with official functions and otherwise in between. So yes, close friends.

And partly because it was Bagel day at the US Embassy this Wednesday or Thursday. I'm not sure how many times a month they have these Bagel days but it only means that Bagels are delivered fresh from the baker (that specifically caters to the American community) at the embassy. I'm guessing E bought a good 2 months supply.

There's something about sharing a cup of freshly brewed coffee, eggs, waffles, bacon, etc with friends early (enough) in the morning with your eyes still feeling sandy (Mr. Sandman is that you?), I find really cozy. It's something you do only with friends you are comfortable with. Comfortable about being seen at your worse (okay, my worse).

This invite has made me nostalgic for the Sunday brunches we used to have in Nairobi. These brunches (no one offers Masai jumping lessons unlike Tango and Salsa here) kick started our social life and has nurtured deep friendships.

We had this brunches every other Sunday at Java House at 10am or later - when we can, really. In the beginning of 2003, we can be found at Java House in Adam's Arcade about 15 minutes from where we lived (Riverside Park, Nairobi)

and afterwards, around 2005 at the Junction Mall (newly built at that time), which was closer to where we all lived (no more than 10 mins to get there).

I miss the wonderful atmosphere, friendly professional staff, great affordable breakfast and great coffee Java House offered at reasonable prices and in gigantic servings. Good food, good coffee, great company to end your weekend and start you right on another grueling week, what else can you ask for.

For reminiscing purposes, I looked up our favorites at the Java House website.

Full Java breakfast: V's favorite KES 380 ($6)
2 Eggs (any style)
Toast
Homefries
Choice of bacon, ham or sausage (beef or pork) -

Steak & Eggs: T's favorite KES 480 ($7.66)
2 Eggs (any style)
Toast
Fillet Steak (w/salsa)

Mushroom Basil Cheddar Omelet: My favorite KES 340 ($5.40)
served with Toast & Homefries


Huevos Rancheros: Another one of T's favorite if the above doesn't fill him up KES 440 ($7)
2 Eggs (any style)
Spicy Ranchero Sauce
Melted Cheddar
Flour Tortilla
Refried Beans
Guacamole
Touch of Homefries
Sour Cream (Additional KES 80 or $ 1.30)

And of course there's the fluffy Pancakes....
2 served with Butter Maple Syrup - KES 300 ($5)
Banana Walnut Pancakes - KES 360 ($5.75)
Add Ice Cream (yum) - KES 100 ($1.60)

and Waffles
Golden Crispy Waffle served with Butter Maple Syrup - KES 280 ($4.50)
Banana Walnut Waffle - KES 320 ($5)
Add Ice Cream - KES 100 ($1.60)

We have our Pancakes and Waffles days when we just crave for them.

We thought about duplicating the activity here in Nicaragua, but no one (including us) really wants Gallo Pinto (typical Central American breakfast - rice & red beans, fried egg, local white salty cheese and toast - commonly served in restaurants here) on Sundays or any mornings for that matter. We can have it at anytime of the day if we want to.

The only places that serve pancakes (or American breakfast) for breakfast are Kathy's Waffle House and Giraffe Joe's at Zona Hippo. The only problem is, besides the fact that they are not at par with the Java House quality and prices are the same if not more, Kathy's is in Granada which is a good 45 minutes away from Managua while Giraffe Joe, although in Managua stops serving breakfast at 10 am. We're not willing to compromise a few more hours of precious sleep on Sunday mornings for what we can get there.

Depending on what we agree with the others tomorrow, we will suggest that we do this at least once a month and just do it ourselves. We'll take turns hosting it - if we're not out of town (Managua is really boring on weekends). A few butt kicks here and there should get us going.

Images courtesy of Java House Nairobi

Ok, I don't know why part of this post's font is in black...I've tried to change it many times to no avail (sigh).