Halloween in Managua

It's never too early to celebrate anything....specially if it means partying!

Happy Halloween everybody!

Small earthquake

We just had an earthquake. A small one but big enough to rattle the desk my computer is on. Felt weird...lasted only for about 10 secs. Couldn't have been anything else, otherwise, a ghost just shook my table and chair.

It's the first time I've actually felt an earthquake here although Managua is known to consistently have seismic activities due to many factors not excluding geothermal activities. Many times the guard would come rushing to ask if we were fine, because apparently, there's been an earthquake, which we did not feel.

If it happened at night (so much more we're oblivious to it), T would hear about it in the office, while himself being clueless. This tells me that Nicaraguans are used to feeling these tremors and can feel these small seismic movements, unless of course, they're in a moving vehicle. Ok, the last part of the previous sentence is something I have (only) wondered about.

Attention Carnivores

Dining experience here in Nicaragua has been a tad disappointing for us. Given the economic situation, most 'fine' dining places supposedly serving good food are outrageously expensive. We most of the time end up paying for the whole gamut between $ 60-80 between the 3 of us (before tax). Personal recommendations or endorsements based on personal experiences are highly valued specially within the expat circle - doctors, hospitals, restaurants, places to visit, hotels, etc. - for lack of knowledge (time to get to know) about the country of post. As far as dining places goes, we found out that service, availability and quality are not consistent (taste is not an issue here - just how many ways can you serve a Ribeye steak) and therefore have stopped recommending restaurants. We just say we've been there and see if you like it yourselves.

Steaks on sizzling plates (a la plancha) are common as Nicaragua also produce good quality beef, not comparable to Argentina or even Honduras but good. The way steaks are served here, including what they refer to as 'Ribeye' is thinner than elsewhere. So, 3/4 is mostly well done, medium rare would be your medium well - FYI.

T the viking and V have their moments when they really feel like having their good old fashioned 16 ouncers and I believe that we finally found THE place. Tucked within the residential area of Los Robles just behind Metro Centro is a restaurant called 'Restaurante de Don Candido' predominantly patronized by locals (probably one of their best kept secrets), where they serve the thickest and most tender Tenderloin and Ribeye we've ever ordered here. Their prices are very reasonable given the quality of their meat at between $18 - 22 (before tax). One of the few places I can take the flak for recommending as I believe it would be hard to go wrong with the kind of meat they have plus the excellent service where the waiters actually know what they are talking about. Here's how to get there but it's best to call for specific directions as it took us 15 minutes (while within the area) to find it:

Restaurante de Don Candido
Los Robles, del Chamán 75 vrs al Sur, Casa #53
Tel: 277-2485
Cel: 882-2266
Email: candidos@cablenet.com.ni

If you don't feel like going out, you can also get good quality meat from the German-Nicaragua owned Bavaria (incl imported cheese, sausages and cold cuts)....but everybody knows that....what I think most don't is that every now and then they also sell what is called 'Bife de Chorizo', steak (beef) with a good layer of fat - I'm not sure what it's called in English but I suspect it's Tenderloin. They sell it pre-cut in 2s for somewhere around $16 per pack. It was recommended by one of T's Danish colleagues, say, on a Wednesday evening and we ran to get it the following day. Good that we did as there were only 5 packs left....yes, we bought them all. As with all good imported things here in Nicaragua, you don't know when they're gonna have it again.

We had it for dinner that same evening served with wild rice with mushroom and Bearnaise sauce. Good meat like that is more a Vikings specialty than mine, so it was T who prepared it. It was excellent and turned out exactly the way I like my steak which is a feat as V prefers his medium well, mine medium rare and T's 3/4 (or tres-cuarto, as they say here). The supply we have right now will tide us over (our cravings) for the next 3 months at least, so Bavaria is always worth a visit.

Note: The wild rice can be bought in La Colonia for between $10-12 a pound (I don't remember exactly) and needs to be cooked or simmered after boiling for 5 minutes for almost an hour before it is ready. I love the wild rice for its consistency - kind of pops in your mouth when you chew on it. You may need to add condiments for taste like salt, pepper, bell pepper or mushrooms - the possibilities are endless. That night, we dined fine prepared by a dashing chef for a reasonable $15 meal each.....I was just lacking candles.

Oooppps, they did it again!

This time for a shorter period, 2 days, I'm talking about my internet connection. Our service, AGAIN, was suspended for non-payment, and AGAIN for the same reason.....the bill was not delivered on time. Sometimes we feel that they do it deliberately. Not that Cablenet gets anything out of it because as far as I understand, there's no reconnection fee. Only the inconvenience of not having internet connection while they are resolving the matter. Resolution means that they either send us the bill, finally, or check their records thoroughly. I'm not well-versed in this matter as the bills are paid in T's office. The procedure is for the bills to be delivered here at home, so I can check that they are correct (which I honestly do only erratically) - plus I really want to monitor our utilities usage - then immediately handed to T, so he can pay it in his office, together with other utility bills. Reconnection is therefore handled on T's end, why I don't know if we pay a fee for it or not.

Before I continue, let me digress a bit by saying that T hates to owe anyone anything, personal favors included, if can be helped - and that includes financial institutions. Talk about us living within our means. I didn't have to adjust on this part of his personality when I married him because my grandfather is exactly the same. Amazing how 2 culturally diverse people can be alike in so many ways. In both cases, credit card bills are paid on time...the moment they arrive and the whole amount to boot, no minimum payments for these two. I remember when my grandfather gave me my first brand new car as a gift that took a loooong time to process (imagine my agitation) because he wanted to put down 80% down payment and the balance to pay in one year - soured the deal for most financial institutions as they won't get anything out of it....just paper work. I have a feeling I'm worse though because if it's not something I can pay in cash, then I don't buy it. Simple shopping mantra by the way...for a shopaholic...no cash-no buy...no cash-no buy...ohhhmmmm.

I used to joke that the banks might not consider us to have a good credit standing because it would appear that we don't have credit ha-ha.

So just imagine us living in a country where most bills are delivered after the due date where we have to pay interest or penalty fees...just because_______ (I'll leave this blank because dog knows what's going on at their end).

An interesting case in point... Adolfo our driver has added another task to his multi-tasking list. Not only is he V's driver, body-guard, friend, soccer mom, cheerer, our part-time gardener, all-around fix-it guy (around the house), pet groomer...he has started a bill pick-up service too (well, just for us). For the past 3 months the social security bill has been consistently arriving past the due payment date and the succeeding bill always reflects the penalty of late payment. We have talked to them many times about this and yes, the famous shoulder shrug at its most elegant, is what we get. We just have to pay...regardless. Asked why that is, I swear they really gave this answer: there's no one to deliver! My Spanish may not be perfect but it's advanced enough for me to understand that one!

So having been defeated by the system, I have decided to have him pick-up the bill if it hasn't arrived on a given date. Yes, I succumbed (head hanging low). This means that every month, we now have to go to their office 3 times (well, once in the bank to pay). 1. to pick-up the bill; 2. to pay it; and 3. to verify payment - a week or so after (so the empleados can use their seguro anytime when they need it) where they have to stamp or sign or whatever it is they need to do with the papers to reflect updated payment.

Now, I only have to compute my gas usage to see how much damage it's doing me...hmmm. At the end of the day, my costs doesn't really matter as I don't want to give them the satisfaction of conducting business without scruples. Right now I am in Nicaragua, yes, but I would have done the same if I am in the Philippines - but then this I haven't experienced there. For all the Philippines' faults, at least customer service is highlighted and short of bending over backwards we try to resolve matters in a positive manner or at the very least try to give a proper answer instead of just shrugging our shoulders. I Should know...I worked in Sales / Marketing / Customer Service all my working life while I was there.

Celebrating (Dutch) Queen Beatrix' Birthday

Although celebrated here in Managua on the 29th of April (Friday), I must confess that I don't know exactly when Queen Beatrix' birthday is. What I do know is that the celebration by the Dutch embassy is significant to us. Together with the Norwegian National day, we (just T & I, really) kind of dubbed them as the parties of the year (within the expat circle). The 2 celebrations are big in terms of number invited guests.

As far as I can remember, it was the first official function we have attended after we got here and it's there that we started to meet friends and therefore started living a more active social life. Unlike other places we've been to, we sort of had a longer adjustment period here, 7 months to be precise, having arrived in October 2006.

The Dutch, much like the Danes are very relaxed people. Like last year, when all the speeches (powerful) were done, a very relaxed and fun atmosphere ensued. Although no-nonsense people, they know how to have fun...the kick-off-your-shoes kind of fun even. So, kick-off our shoes, we did, indeed!

The Swedish School Nicaragua

The Swedish School in Nicaragua celebrates its 20th year Anniversary today. In line with the celebration, the children of the school has prepared a show for the parents and guests. I always enjoy the shows they put up at the Swedish school as it's always done in the spirit of camaraderie and with fun in mind. No pressure, just fun.

I can dedicate a whole blog to the Swedish School here in Nicaragua for all the good things it has done for V and us. On posts, V always goes to the (or an) International School, but since there's no 'real' International School here in Managua - quite a few claims so but at best, they offer International Baccalaureate - we enrolled him with the American Nicaraguan School (ANS) which at best offers an AP program. Big mistake! Now, this one deserves 2 blogs on its own for all the misery we have experienced there! Every expat knows how schools for their kids play an important role in their lives. This I promise to write about separately as I desperately wished I have read first-hand experiences with ANS before we came. That would have saved us a lot of trouble, money and misery.

Anyway, on to happier things. T was adamant that we should try the Swedish school as it caters to children of Nordic heritage. I thought, ugh, another language to learn for V...*cough* bordering on *cough* child *cough* abuse *cough*- I underestimated my own son. After some incidents in ANS, I conceded. We moved him and that was the best decision so far we've made here in Nicaragua...life went on as it should be.

V is definitely happy there and so are we. Every imaginable country up North is represented. Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland and Iceland - hmmm, did I forget anyone? The school has only done Vicente good and not only is he happy but we've developed great friendships with other parents as well. It's like one big happy family. I can still hear my friend F telling me (her kids are at ANS), just recently: 'you're lucky you're friends with the parents there, me, I've been sitting with this woman (we're both waiting for our kids to come out) for almost a year now and we still haven't said hello. In reality, it's the school that brought us together. We have many activities where parents do help out and out of town family day 2x a year. It is as well convenient for the parents to hold an adult party while the kids play together some place else with supervision.

V now speaks 5 languages in various degrees of fluency. I make sure he speaks Tagalog with me, Danish with his father, our family together in English (my Danish has by now been trampled mercilessly by my Spanish while T's Tagalog is non-existent), Swedish in School and Spanish with friends. I shouldn't have worried at all.

Presenting the Swedish School boys

Ugghh, don't ask me why, I'm just glad they're having fun and are comfortable with what they're doing...all in the name of fun!!!

Managua shopping tip

We all have our own pick-me-ups . For some it's pastries, for some ice cream and yet for some just shopping in general, for me it's shoes. I don't think there's anything wrong with owning up to our fetishes unless of course they are k*nky (wink) but then there's no need to discuss it either. Everyone has at least one including the men. Just watch them accumulate gadgets and tools that they plan to use in future...a future that may not even come.

Although shoes are my fetish, I don't let it get the better of me. More than the shoes, it's the rush I get from buying a pair I like at a price I like even better. This was never a problem for me in Denmark as there's always somewhere I can get good quality shoes at 70% or if I get really lucky even at 90% off - almost a give away.

As I have mentioned in a previous post, it is harder to indulge oneself here in Nicaragua but, but, but...sometimes, you can get lucky. This week I was. Nine West in Las Galerias is having a sale and not only are they reduced from anywhere between 25 - 50% off regular price, they are also buy-one-take-one or as we say here 'dos por uno', further reducing a pair to almost 25% its original price! There are newer models on sale at 50% off including some bags and accessories. I like the double slash better.

They've had this before but stopped it...well, that's what they told me when I asked early this year...as in 'never'. After that, I swore never to stop by the store again hmmmph. So, imagine my surprise when (okay, okay) I peeked in last week to see the sale - it's way at the back of the store - that they're having it again. In panic that I may never see the inside of the store again I bought uhmm some...just in case.

Not bad huh for a pair costing between $25-30. They must be soooo last, last year but who cares.

So, go, go, go while they have it or while they still have your size. Dog knows when they're gonna have it again! Really, I only passed by because I was desperate to get Tango shoes and I think I found it (the last pair - anything that will not fly off my feet when I have to make the sooo vicious kick that's so distinctly Tango).

Sometimes a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

Champagne and quiche weekend

This weekend has been quite hectic (meaning we were mostly out of the house) compared to how we normally spend weekends in Managua. That's why we make it a point to go to a nearby beach when we can.

As T's birthday fell on a Sunday this year, unlike last year when I threw a surprise birthday party for T in our house, we've decided to just hold intimate celebrations here in there. My weekend looked like this:

Friday (afternoon) - after work, I went to T's office and brought snacks (Lasagne and Ham, Mushroom and Asparagus crustless quiche) and some champagne so T can celebrate with his co-workers.

Friday (evening) - for the Arabian Night we brought lamb curry.

Saturday (afternoon) - Birthday party of K & C's 4 year old. On the way, passing by S' (my favorite 'dama') Women's (Cañasta) project - made of newspaper - as support (yup we bought something...s).

At K & C, they made an impromptu celebration for T by sharing poor 4 yr old Lucas' cake (sweet).

Sunday (morning) - birthday breakfast for T. It was so hot that we decided to jump in the pool clothes and all - pretty much all the exercise we got that day - the jumping, I mean. Oh and to check if T's dive watch -which he got for his birthday - works. For now we know it is indeed waterproof...that's a start.

Sunday (afternoon) - Salsa workshop where we also brought Champagne and Quiche to share.

Sunday (evening) - light dinner and a movie

The above doesn't sound so much but given that we'd rather lounge around the house on weekends when we're not out of town, is already a lot.

Obviously, I did a lot of cooking this weekend but I thought it was smart to make the same food for both the office and Salsa 'brindis' (toast) because they're 2 totally different groups. In both places some have asked me for the recipe of the quiche, so here it is:

Ham, mushroom and Asparagus crustless quiche

8 Eggs
1 cup chopped (white) Onion
1 cup chopped Button mushroom
1 cup chopped Deli ham
1 cup chopped Green & Red bell pepper mix
1 cup chopped Asparagus
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese
1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
1/2 cup Cream cheese
1/2 cup Mascarpone cream cheese
1/2 cup
1 teaspoon (adjust to taste) ground Nutmeg
Salt & pepper to taste (about a teaspoon each)
1/2 cup butter

In a sauce (or any deep) pan, saute the following in butter (leave enough butter to coat bottom of the baking dish) in this order: onion, mushrooms, bell peppers, asparagus (add last if using canned asparagus), ham. Set aside and let cool when done.

Beat eggs together with salt, pepper and nutmeg. In a separate bowl mix cream cheese and mascarpone and whisk until soft. Gradually mix in the egg. Add the cheddar while mixing continuously and finally the swiss cheese.

Coat baking dish (16 inch) with butter and spread the saute mix evenly. Pour cheese and egg mixture. Using a fork mix a bit to even out saute mix and cheese mixture on the baking dish.

Bake at 180C for 30 -40 minutes and 200C for 15 minutes (or less) or until top is golden.

Serves 12

Arabian Night

T & I attended a party last night with an Arabian theme. Everyone brought Middle Eastern cuisine - as authentic as we can make them given the ingredients we can get our hands on. Our hosts S & B provided an authentic atmosphere that really made the night Arabian.

Since we received the invitation, I have wracked my brains on what T & I are going to wear. There are places here where you can rent or buy costumes, while renting runs between $20 - 30, buying them costs of course a lot more depending on how intricate it is and we know how intricate women's Arabian costumes can get. An example would be S' top which she found at a shop in Metrocentro that cost $40. It's supposed to be a set but they sell the bottom separately for another $40. Since I need a new costume anyway (I have a leopard costume that I have been using year after year, for the last 7 years - it's about time.), I thought I should buy one or try to have one made. I found out that between the 'tela', the 'shing-a-lings' (you know - the shiny dangling stuff - for lack of a better name) and the labor, I'd end up shelling out more than $50 or so. Well, not bad compared to $80.

I vaguely remembered having seen something in Mercado Oriental when I was there last with A but wasn't sure if they still had it or if it's feasible, so off I went with S to check it out - Mercado Oriental is always worth checking out! Voila....for $ 20 problem solved. For T, I bought 4 yards (width: 60) of gauze like cotton material for a total of $6, cut a whole in the middle and tied it with a belt. The turban was borrowed from B and is authentic from India (about 10 meters...just for that whew).

M brought belly dancing music to complete the atmosphere. Everyone (and I mean every single one) came in well thought of costumes that made it all the more festive. It was a great evening.

Have you ever been to a costume party where you bothered to come in costume but ended up looking ridiculous because quite a few did not bother to dress up....I have....many times.

We've really met some great people here.

How was the Aventura concert?

Don't ask me, we never managed to see it!

3:00 pm Friday, I was already on the phone with T reminding him to come home early so we can go out and grab an early dinner before watching the concert. 2 days before that I went to Music and More in Metro Centro to buy the tickets for the concert. I bought the VIP tickets ($C 450.00) thinking that it would be very crowded in general admission ($C 250) and since we don't plan to drink alcohol that night (except for a couple of beers maybe) really didn't need to have Platinum ($40.00) either.

The concert was supposed to start at 8:00 pm but we were advised to be there at least an hour before because of parking. It was held in an empty parking lot (dirt floor) with chicken wire (a bit thicker) to separate the 3 groups with Platinum being in front - chicken wire fence - VIP - chicken wire fence - general admission.

We got there a little before 7:00 pm and after parking the car a block away we were surprised to find out that despite having bought the tickets in advance, we still have to queue to get in. I know, I know...of course we have to queue but not in a 300 meter line. There were 3 of these lines for VIP alone, 1 for general admission and 1 for platinum. We immediately realized that we would have been better off buying the general admission tickets as not only were there less people (apparently the most ticket printed was VIP - it at least looked that way), the parking lot being not that big and with the stage elevated, not only would we not have felt the difference but we would actually be closer to the exit / entrance gates in case there's a stampede.

The lot was definitely packing more people than it can accommodate. We can see that already from outside, still we forged on excited and determined to enjoy the night. We were prepared for this. We were in jeans, t-shirt and rubber shoes and no bags, no camera, only some cash, cell phones and the tickets...all in the front pockets of our jeans.

After queuing for more than an hour and about 3 meters from the gate, we experienced a surge of people trying to cut in line. As cutting in line is fairly common here (check-out counters, ATMs, etc), we have many times politely told those who try to cut-in in front of us to please go back to the end of the line. I can't tell you how many have tried during the course of the hour but the worst was when we were finally near the gate. V was sandwiched between T and myself with T leading our line and had the tickets in his hands. When the surge started, he put them in his back pocket, but still with his hand over them, afraid that someone might just snatch them. All of a sudden some guys became aggressive and started pushing T and for the split-second he took his hand away from his pocket to parry the bodies ramming him, our tickets were pick-pocketed.

T almost got into a fight because he thought he knew who exactly among those aggressively pushing took the tickets. I pulled him away from the crazy crowd before it got worse. T, normally a patient man, was reacting to the situation. Dejectedly, we walked back to the car while V cried. T being so frustrated, offered to buy us tickets from a scalper for 3 times its price. I firmly said no. I understand that we really wanted to see this concert but with the type of crowd and our mood, I didn't think it was safe anymore.

Tonight, I told my gf A about it and funny enough they too have a story to share. One of their friends actually managed to get in to see the concert with his girlfriend but lost his wallet (credit cards, driver's license, etc) and his cellphone in the process. He even made sure they were in his front pockets.

His problems started when at some point in the concert people started to scale and or tear down the makeshift fence in between the areas and started to throw things at the guards when they tried stop them. It became apparently chaotic. He was more vigilant about a stampede and was paying more attention to the tiny exit gate and logistics rather his own stuff. When the surge reached them...he was a sitting duck.

This reminds me of Manna's concert here in Managua last year that we were not able to attend, where we also bought tickets - you guessed it...VIP. We got confused with our social calendar and said yes to a sit down dinner on concert night. We thought we can still catch it later in the evening, but as dinners go...it was hard to leave, so we missed it. From those who attended, we also heard of people losing their wallets and cellphones and like the Aventura concert, was not well organized.

I have decided to not attend concerts here anymore- at least the outdoor ones - I don't think they're worth the aggravation. As far as logistics and security is concerned....they are stampedes waiting to happen.

Mañana is today!

Whew, finally got everything done! Got the Ts from Mano Magica ($25 total), handed over with a smile (more like..see, told you we'd have them ready today).

I was anxious about not getting them on time because I thought that these are gifts our friends can really use and not just some tourist souvenir crap that would end up as clutter.

Like the Che Guevarra shirts peddled all over Latin America, the Sandino silhouette IS Nicaragua. Reminiscent of the Nicaraguan revolution in the late 1920s against American dominance that echoed throughout Latin America. Augusto Sandino's legacy is latent in the ideologies of the FSLN, better known as the Sadinistas who are back in power through the election of Daniel Ortega, the incumbent president of Nicaragua.

The shirt on the left, below, is for M and loosely translates to 'forget it you may not afford me'. M being a bombshell, for sure will not have a difficult time getting away with it. The one on the right is mine..I think it's funny (translation: it wasn't me)

The only real thing I was dreading was the trip to the vet, reason why I kept putting it off in the first place. It has always been hard for Mille (German Shepherd) traveling in the car as she always gets car sick, unlike Pølse (dachshund) who just enjoys the ride. It's equally hard for me as it breaks my heart seeing Mille drooling herself dry while puking her guts out at the same time even if we have the window at the back open to get air in. Managua is not a place to have a dog hang its head outside the car window.

Below: Mille starting to get queasy; Adolfo, our driver, comforting Mille after her injection and prepping her for the ride home; Pølse being her normal curious self.

We could also have the vet come over to the house instead but we'd really like for Mille to get used to car travel as we would love to take them with us on long weekends to the beach. When our tour of duty is over, I can't imagine how Mille will survive the plane ride to either Denmark or the next post.

As an aside, below is where we buy most medicines guaranteed cheaper than anywhere else I have been to in Managua. It is conveniently situated at the corner of Hospital Metropolitano (but still easy to miss sometimes) on 9 3/4 Carretera a Masaya.

I went this morning to pick-up some antihistamine ointment for T (included in his email list) as sand flies feasted on him while in San Blas, Panama. I remember being fodder for those rascals once too (I think it was also in Panama) and it was the most irritating thing in the world.

Happy hour, here we come! I'll just finish packing later.