Sunset in Managua

We may not have dramatic sunsets here like the ones they get in San Juan del Sur (Pacific Coast of Nicaragua - where the beaches are), but we do get our share of beautiful ones.

It's amazing sometimes how the sky turns Orange that gives an illusion of a sky so near, it's tempting to reach up and disturb the clouds.

More than watching the sun go down on the horizon, our sundowners (cocktail parties) are hinged on the atmosphere sunsets here in Nicaragua in general offer....a very languid and relaxing time to enjoy with friends after a hard day's work, brought about by a play of soothing colors.

It is indeed a beautiful country that I one can only hope it's people know too well.

I love the way light and shadows play against our dining room window....who needs an expensive painting?

An ideal time to play with the other members of the family

If sunsets are the only thing to live for then I can live here forever....alas, no.

Nicaraguan furniture

As mentioned in my previous post, Masatepe is where one can find local furniture shops lining the streets. I went there to look for a 'Mimbre' (wicker) set for la terraza, below are some of my finds:

My choice would be the bottom-right photo (yes, I needed a model to see that), with D's help. They don't differ much from each other except in price and workmanship. This set costs around $C 13,000 (down from $C 15,000, after haggling), which is about $721.00 at today's exchange rate plus delivery charge of around $C200 and most likely, additional cost for a glass top for the center table to render it useful. I may also need to buy 2 rocking chairs (a favorite furniture here), in addition, to be able to host coffee or tea mornings for about 10 people. A rocking chair here depending on the kind of wood used and material for the seats, may cost anywhere between $200 - 400.

We have bought furniture from stores in Masatepe where our favorite would be one that's called Muebleria El Chele. This particular shop is 'supposedly' known for their workmanship in indoor furniture using hardwood.

Quality and price are sadly the 2 things that are not consistent here in Nicaragua (from my experience) where the term 'preferred customer' doesn't exist.....yet. Therefore, be prepared to haggle each time (regardless how many times you have bought from that store) because the mantra seems to be: a foreigner is a foreigner and will (or should) always pay (a lot) more. Eventually, one gets used to it and becomes second nature. It has never been a problem for me, coming from Asia where haggling is considered a sport, but when the price quoted is 50-100% more than what it's normally sold for, even I get uncomfortable.

My advise would be to go around and get a 'feel' of the prices before committing to anything and that goes for most of the purchases you would do here. You'd be amazed at how much the prices for the same item varies once you've been around.

If it's quality of wood, design and workmanship we're talking about, the best place in my opinion to buy from would be Simplemente Madera.....if money is no object, that is. Hmmmm, why do does it remind me of Scandinavian design...(?)

The week that was

So many things to share, not enough brain cells to process them all at once and less energy to put them in writing. I have been in a languid mood, to say the least, after coming back from the beach. I am in fact pushing myself to sit down and write, only to be able to say that there is indeed ONE thing that I have followed through with diligence, albeit intermittently....this Blog! I need a muse.

To tag the other topics properly and for coherence sake, except for the reason why we went to the beach so soon after summer vacation and the practical information regarding the beach club itself, let me just describe how my week went:

Gym

I joined the gym....after 12 years (it's true!!!) of procrastination and guilt in denying my body the exercise it needs. The last time I knowingly went somewhere to purposely stretch, move and sweat was to a taebo class back in the Philippines and only for 3 months (1 hour x 3x a week to me was already a lot). Even then, I would have excuses to miss some classes - I don't have time outside of work, finish a report, I had a headache or a party to go to (I took the evening sessions). My only other form of exercise was playing tennis....sometimes, and golf ...less than sometimes (too hot to walk 18 holes but wouldn't be caught dead (too young) riding a golf car).

When I stopped working, my excuses changed (depending where I was) too, of course. Expensive and too cold (Denmark), too far and too dangerous (Nairobbery, umm Nairobi, I mean). My excuses in Denmark held some truth while the ones in Kenya were obviously lame as the security situation there did not deter us from having an active social life. I don't have any valid reason not to go to the gym here in Nicaragua. I have plenty of time on my hands, nice temperature almost whole year round, reasonable gym fees (except for Club Terraza where membership starts at around $10,000 + monthly dues) ranging from $20-50 a month.

As I'm a sucker for recommendations and a firm believer that exercise should be fun, an excuse to meet new friends and should not be a tough regimen (unlike: 'give me 50 soldier' - I'm a lame duck, I know) and least of all, a financial burden, Club Terraza is out of the question - even if I live only a few blocks from the place. It is afterall a club but apparently a very cliquish one at that.

Finally, after almost 2 years of (non) looking, I found the gym I wanted to join, courtesy of my fave dama and salsa classmate, S. Studio-Gimnasio Illusiones that can be found at:

Frente a la UNI (In front of UNI)
Tel No.: (505) 277 5557

I swear, that's the listed address, UNI being a well known university here in Managua. I know how to get there from my house and at the risk of coming by my place first before arriving there, if interested, call them at their listed number above for specific directions.

I like the atmosphere in Illusiones, cozy and friendly, like all other Pellas owned companies (i.e Casa Pellas - car dealership; Vivian Pellas - Hospital; etc). Although modest in size, Illusioness offers many different types of exercise (aerobics, rythm, gym, step, belly dancing (?) Flamenco ) and dance classes (ballet, jazz and jazz for teenagers) with a modest but sufficiently equipped gym.

Price ranges from $35-50 monthly depending on which combination of classes you want to take. I took the the $50 a month to include everything except jazz and ballet, just to be flexible. The belly dancing poses a dilemma as that's one part of me (on top of a host of others) I wanted to lose in the process...less to jiggle with. FYI, they give a $10 /month discount if you sign-up for the $50 combo for 3 months ($120 total). If there's anything that will make sure I consistently attend classes (right now, besides the gym, I attend step and aerobics) is ......advance payment.

Influenza

There is an epidemic going around, influenza, as La Prensa reports, which has claimed the lives of a significant number of children. Known as the 'flu', I think and 'trangkaso' in the Philippines. This is one virus that, as we know it back home, never leaves the house until everyone has been struck by it. A tropical virus, I surmise, that lasts for 5 - 7 days, accompanied by muscle pain, fever, throat infection and phlegm. T has been struck by the virus (along with some of his colleagues at work). I myself have had it many times before back in the Philippines and normally doesn't pose any real danger except to undernourished toddlers or younger and very old people (pneumatic complications). Cure normally consists of Paracetamol, a lot of rest (staying in bed), sleep and loads of water (there is real danger in dehydration specially for young children).

So, 5 days babysitting so far (including today).

Catarina, San Juan de Oriente, Masatepe, Lago de Apoyo, Masaya Revisited

It's been awhile since I've been to these places, no more than 30 mins away from Managua. We have a new spouse (D) in town at the Danish Embassy and since I was looking for outdoor furniture, I thought it was a good time to take her along. For furniture (whether indoor or outdoor), I really only needed to go to Masatepe to see what they have (anything new), new supplier to order from (my own design) or how much they go for at the moment. But since I was taking D with me, why not make a sight-seeing trip out of it. These are the same places I take visiting relatives and friends to for a half day's trip.

Catarina, a town one will have to pass through going South of Managua (alternative routes are the Granada Highway and Jinotepe). Catarina has a highway that connects to the Pan-American Highway that eventually brings you to Rivas (where most of the Pacific beach resorts are) and all the way to the Costa Rican border (about 4 hours away from Managua). Some call it the 'hell road' (besides Diriamba) because of the potholes (centimeters apart) that littered the semi-paved and truck abused road. A really bad condition for such an important thoroughfare. Amazingly, this is a thing of the past (like 2 months ago past) as it has now been paved and therefore a breeze to traverse.

Catarina is where one can buy various plants for the garden and all other accoutrement to beautify the same (where I got my bird bath and ethnic inspired plant holders). It is also in this town (near the iglesia - church) where one finds the 'Mirador' over looking Lago de Apoyo (Lake Apoyo), A mere 20 mins from Managua.

Masatepe, the furniture mecca of Nicaragua.

Masaya, is the town where one can find the Mercado de Artisania, everything Nicaraguan, from hammocks to cigars, leather and woodwork - all in one place. This is a very touristy place as these products are brought to Masaya from all over Nicaragua so make sure you haggle.

San Juan de Oriente is only worth going to if you are passing through Catarina, anyway. It is a block of stores selling artesanias of mostly clay. you will find the usual clay wind chimes (god forbid the winds of Nicaragua actually touch them as they will break and pulverize - I hang mine against the wall....inside the house - pretty to behold). Again, haggle as if your life depends on it.

Mirador de Catarina (shown in an old photo - taken Dec 2006 - on the right) is where one can have a breath taking view of Lago de Apoyo. On higher ground, therefore pleasant temperatures all year round. We make sure that we are there near lunchtime to partake of lunch while enjoying the tranquil sight of the Lake.

As for the route itself, I normally do it in this order:

1. Masaya Highway (Carretera a Masaya - Highway to Masaya)
2. Masatepe (off Catarina Road)
- go back to Catarina Road
3. San Juan de Oriente (off Catarina Road)
-go back to Catarina Road and turn back towards
4. Catarina
5. Mirador
6. Masaya

Ladies' Coffee Morning (Danish Embassy spouses)

It's not as formal as the title implies nor is it a regular thing. It's one of those times when you say, let's meet up one of these days and have coffee. Well, this one pushed through. It was actually G's idea, our ambassador's wife (a formidable woman in her own right), held at D's place (remember the new comer?) and attended by 5 people, yes, we are one of the smaller (only by number of expats and not as a donor - I believe Denmark is one of the top 3 donor countries in terms of aid to Nicaragua) embassies here in Managua, after Norway, Switzerland, Iceland and Luxembourg. It was cozy and fun and hopefully becomes more regular than it is right now.

I remember when I first came and inquired about meeting the other spouses (which was understandably, first and foremost on my list), I was asked which group I wanted to join...the English or the Spanish group(??????) I thought I would do well as I still spoke a higher degree of fluency of danish at that time, in a Danish or English group (until I can chit-chat in Spanish, of course) ...but there were only 5 of us altogether with 2 of them men. Why the divide? Language does play an important role in one's social life here in Nicaragua.

For the curious, let me just breakdown the current spouses' language prowess:

G - Danish, English, Spanish - fluent
D - Danish, English - Fluent; Spanish - In the process of learning but picking it up fast (she just got here)
I - Originally hails from Argentina but is a Finnish citizen - is fluent in Spanish, Finnish and English
M - Although not a spouse (she's the expat - her spouse is from Chile and is fluent in both Spanish and Danish) is fluent in all 3 languages like G
And then there's me who speaks this and that but can better express myself if I can use all of them.....in one sentence, sigh.

English (all Danes speak english but not so many Latinos do) being the language we had in common helped...so, english it was.

Waxing Nostalgic

Off to the supermarket. What started out as a normal Saturday turned nostalgic when I found, of all things, frozen corndogs in La Union Supermarket (a Walmart Central America Company). It's seldom we visit La Union although it's a favorite to some, for practical reasons. Hiper La Colonia, the supermarket I favor is 1. closer to where I live, 2. the credit institution we use gives us a perennial savings of 5% on all purchases, 3. I find the fully automated check-out system more convenient and faster - meaning all discounts are automatically reflected in the cash register without or very little manual processing.

The offerings at the fresh meat, fruits and vegetables sections some say are fresher than those that can be found in La Colonia but I have had no problems buying meat in La Colonia, besides most of the meat we cook in the house are either bought at Pricemart or Bavaria. One must also be careful in comparing prices because even if La Union advertises to be cheaper (or known to be so), unless you remember exactly how much particular items cost in La Colonia, they could be more expensive in La Union. Ex. the coffee I buy in La Colonia that costs about C$60, costs C$72 in La Union or the apples we bought yesterday that sells for C$12@ in La Colonia, sells for C$15@ in La Union. Shop on Wednesday evenings when La Colonia have fruits and veggies at half price, add the 5% credit card discount and voila, La Colonia comes out the winner in long term savings.

There are some imported products that can be found in La Union that neither La Colonia nor Pricemart carry like T's fave roastbeef to mention one and surprise, surprise....frozen corndogs (about C$70 for 6)!

The last time I've had them was at Disneyworld (Epcot) this summer and I love those darn dogs (pun intended). I remember having them mostly back in the Philippines since I was just a little kid up until I was in Highschool. They were my favorite (amongst many other local and exotic) snack. They were sold mostly in malls and some canteens just outside my school.

Amazing how a simple corn dog can bring back pleasant childhood memories, not unlike smelling a whiff of familiar perfume or just some random odor (desirable or undesirable) for that matter. Friends I haven't seen for ages (ones I shared corn dog moments with), tennis, my favorite pair of crayons shoes, piano lessons, street games I used to play and faceless playmates came to mind. I didn't realize how much of those corn dogs (and carbohydrates!) I have consumed....until now.

Managua shopping tip #3

Finally a real sale at 'Guess' Las Galerias, Managua! 50% off on everything except watches, until new stocks come in (could be anytime soon, I was told).

Check it out before they change their minds.

The 'Carrion' department store which also carries good brands at reasonable (by Managua standards) prices are having a promo of 'buy 2 take 1 free', until the 20th of this month (not applicable to perfumes and home furniture and decor).

The only Carrion I know is in Metro Centro but I'm sure there are others in other major shopping malls in Managua (except La Galeria as they compete with Siman).

A good time to shop with friends.

Small earthquake

We just had an earthquake. A small one but big enough to rattle the desk my computer is on. Felt weird...lasted only for about 10 secs. Couldn't have been anything else, otherwise, a ghost just shook my table and chair.

It's the first time I've actually felt an earthquake here although Managua is known to consistently have seismic activities due to many factors not excluding geothermal activities. Many times the guard would come rushing to ask if we were fine, because apparently, there's been an earthquake, which we did not feel.

If it happened at night (so much more we're oblivious to it), T would hear about it in the office, while himself being clueless. This tells me that Nicaraguans are used to feeling these tremors and can feel these small seismic movements, unless of course, they're in a moving vehicle. Ok, the last part of the previous sentence is something I have (only) wondered about.

Africa Breakfast Club Nicaragua Style

It's the first time since we arrived here that anyone has invited us to brunch. M & E is serving brunch at their place for 10 people tomorrow. I surmise that this will partly be E's farewell brunch for his close friends. He's leaving for another post in August but will have to say his goodbyes early because everyone will be out of the country in June & July for summer vacation.

We've met the most wonderful people in our Salsa and Tango class and the challenges in learning these oh so Latino moves has brought us as close as friends sharing a common burden can get - we see each other minimum twice a week with official functions and otherwise in between. So yes, close friends.

And partly because it was Bagel day at the US Embassy this Wednesday or Thursday. I'm not sure how many times a month they have these Bagel days but it only means that Bagels are delivered fresh from the baker (that specifically caters to the American community) at the embassy. I'm guessing E bought a good 2 months supply.

There's something about sharing a cup of freshly brewed coffee, eggs, waffles, bacon, etc with friends early (enough) in the morning with your eyes still feeling sandy (Mr. Sandman is that you?), I find really cozy. It's something you do only with friends you are comfortable with. Comfortable about being seen at your worse (okay, my worse).

This invite has made me nostalgic for the Sunday brunches we used to have in Nairobi. These brunches (no one offers Masai jumping lessons unlike Tango and Salsa here) kick started our social life and has nurtured deep friendships.

We had this brunches every other Sunday at Java House at 10am or later - when we can, really. In the beginning of 2003, we can be found at Java House in Adam's Arcade about 15 minutes from where we lived (Riverside Park, Nairobi)

and afterwards, around 2005 at the Junction Mall (newly built at that time), which was closer to where we all lived (no more than 10 mins to get there).

I miss the wonderful atmosphere, friendly professional staff, great affordable breakfast and great coffee Java House offered at reasonable prices and in gigantic servings. Good food, good coffee, great company to end your weekend and start you right on another grueling week, what else can you ask for.

For reminiscing purposes, I looked up our favorites at the Java House website.

Full Java breakfast: V's favorite KES 380 ($6)
2 Eggs (any style)
Toast
Homefries
Choice of bacon, ham or sausage (beef or pork) -

Steak & Eggs: T's favorite KES 480 ($7.66)
2 Eggs (any style)
Toast
Fillet Steak (w/salsa)

Mushroom Basil Cheddar Omelet: My favorite KES 340 ($5.40)
served with Toast & Homefries


Huevos Rancheros: Another one of T's favorite if the above doesn't fill him up KES 440 ($7)
2 Eggs (any style)
Spicy Ranchero Sauce
Melted Cheddar
Flour Tortilla
Refried Beans
Guacamole
Touch of Homefries
Sour Cream (Additional KES 80 or $ 1.30)

And of course there's the fluffy Pancakes....
2 served with Butter Maple Syrup - KES 300 ($5)
Banana Walnut Pancakes - KES 360 ($5.75)
Add Ice Cream (yum) - KES 100 ($1.60)

and Waffles
Golden Crispy Waffle served with Butter Maple Syrup - KES 280 ($4.50)
Banana Walnut Waffle - KES 320 ($5)
Add Ice Cream - KES 100 ($1.60)

We have our Pancakes and Waffles days when we just crave for them.

We thought about duplicating the activity here in Nicaragua, but no one (including us) really wants Gallo Pinto (typical Central American breakfast - rice & red beans, fried egg, local white salty cheese and toast - commonly served in restaurants here) on Sundays or any mornings for that matter. We can have it at anytime of the day if we want to.

The only places that serve pancakes (or American breakfast) for breakfast are Kathy's Waffle House and Giraffe Joe's at Zona Hippo. The only problem is, besides the fact that they are not at par with the Java House quality and prices are the same if not more, Kathy's is in Granada which is a good 45 minutes away from Managua while Giraffe Joe, although in Managua stops serving breakfast at 10 am. We're not willing to compromise a few more hours of precious sleep on Sunday mornings for what we can get there.

Depending on what we agree with the others tomorrow, we will suggest that we do this at least once a month and just do it ourselves. We'll take turns hosting it - if we're not out of town (Managua is really boring on weekends). A few butt kicks here and there should get us going.

Images courtesy of Java House Nairobi

Ok, I don't know why part of this post's font is in black...I've tried to change it many times to no avail (sigh).

Managua Shopping Tip #2

I know from scouring various malls in Managua (there are many which in most days are depressingly empty), that there are, so far, 4 Benetton outlets in the city:

1. La Galeria
2. Centro Commercial Managua (2)
3. Centro de Las Americas (Huembes Road, near the turn-off to the highway that leads to the airport)

What I have found out recently, though, is that their products move between these outlets depending on turn-over. The primary outlet, obviously is La Galeria as it caters to the high-end market and all new products are therefore introduced there at regular (outrageous) prices. Although it may seem that they hardly mount any 'sale' campaigns, they actually do, only with very light discounts (5-30% off) that still comes out expensive due to their high profit margins (I have compared prices between the US, Italy, Denmark, Colombia, Panama and Nicaragua). At the end it really doesn't feel like they are having a sale.

It's not fair for me to have judged them in the past because upon visiting the 2 other stores, I realized that the products that are not doing well are moved to store #2 and sold at 'regular' prices lower than in store #1 or put up on sale with bigger discounts, to cater to mid-market consumers. Ex. a suitcase in store #1 would be priced between $215 - 240 plus 15% sales tax, while the same suitcase after maybe (1 year or so - yup, that's the kicker, but who cares, I certainly don't) will be sold for about $120. As to store #3, you'll find there all other discards (children's clothes, shirts /pants /skirts (men & women) but no big ticket items like suitcases) on huge discount, ex. a Sisley dress for $30. If I remember correctly the Benetton franchise here also sell Esprit and Sisley.

I highly recommend checking out the Benetton shop at Centro de las Americas as it's hard to differentiate between 'new arrival' fashion and old stocks (if you ask me)...they kind of have the same look to me.

When things fall apart

Ever had those days when nothing really works or anything you touch turns into muck? What's worse than those kind of days is the fact that it's not something you can rationalize or really explain (what's eating you) or what's gone wrong, how, where and when. I have been having those days lately. There's just a bunch of things that needs repairing and none of them are done right, for instance....and a whole bunch of other non-essential but must do things that either can't be done properly or on time, specially if you're at the mercy of others who are supposed to know what they are doing and have been doing it for the longest time. The more one thinks about it, the more it mucks the brain inviting other irrational moves or decisions that just worsens the situation.

Owmmmm....Deep breath...eeeexhaaaaale. This should be over soon.

Georgian National Ballet in Managua

A string of coincidences lead us to bring V to The Teatro Nacional Ruben Dario here in Managua to see the Georgian State National Ballet perform.

Photos courtesy of Russian Music and Videos

The only other time we've been there was via the Norwegian Embassy's invitation to a concert (Piano in A minor) by a guest Norwegian Pianist (apologies as my memory fails me again big time) and the Nicaraguan National Orchestra to commemorate Edvard Grieg's 100th year death anniversary.

We love the performing arts but not enough (I guess) to really pay attention to what's going on in the theater circuit. If we're lucky enough to be informed of some performances we might be interested in, we go. We try to expose V to the various forms of art and its appreciation, but only lately as I have been very careful not to force him too much to it (lest he's not yet ready) as he also might develop abhorrence towards the activity.

The (real) first time was last year in New York where we brought him there precisely for the purpose of exposing him to Museums and Broadway. Although having been slowly exposed by a string of International and Scandinavian schools, it must be more fun visiting museums with your peers than doing the same for longer periods of time with your parents. At the end, we asked him to stand for at least 20 seconds in each piece that catches his attention and tell us what he thinks about it or what he sees. I imagined him counting silently 1..2..3..4.....20 ha-ha. But then after the trip, we found out that the Picasso pieces in general interested him and his favorite museum was The Museum of Natural History and Guggenheim his least. That's a start.

Sometimes our own ignorance (okay, mine) makes us miss some must-sees. V was invited by his music teacher to be a guest performer (recorder) at the Teatro National Ruben Dario this June where he will have a solo number - 'La Mora Limpia'. We accepted the invitation and of course wanted V to be familiar with the Teatro (the stage) where he's going to perform to dispel some of his nervousness. Our opportunity came when we received this email from M:

Dear All

On a good friend's insistence, I was dragged along last night to see the performance of the Georgia National Ballet at the Ruben Dario. And what an amazing experience that turned out to be. I hadn't been exposed to Georgian culture before and didn't really know what to expect. It was a heady mix of folk dance, acrobats and ballet with everything from peasants to princesses and cossacks to ninjas. The music, though simple, was mesmerizing; a 4 piece band consisting of clarinet, 2 accordions and drum evoked flavours of ancient Persia, Byzantium and modern Russia. Similarly the pageantry of costumes traversed Eastern Europe to the Middle East over the last millennium. The visual and audible feast absolutely entranced the audience; the dancers and musicians got a long standing ovation.

The good news is that they are repeating the performance next Tuesday night. Seriously consider going and do take along children - who will equally love it. Be prepared to see sparks flying, whizzing daggers and women in long dresses who float across the stage as if being transported on an invisible pulley.

M

M described it really well, more than I ever could. So folks, the Georgian National Ballet (Although picked up from Youtube, It's exactly the same performance that we saw, only this one has some sort of intro where you can see them practicing), if given the chance, don't miss them perform. A unique experience that our whole family enjoyed, specially V.

An anecdote: When V learned that we are going to a ballet -because that's what it is, after all - I saw him grimace a bit. We reminded him how he enjoyed Billy Elliot....that worked.

V's never ending celebration

I don't remember celebrating my 13th birthday in a particularly special way. I don't think I even considered it a milestone. V's 13th was a really big thing for him, we actually felt it coming to pass like a series of terrestrial rumblings that are sure to culminate in an eruption. Weird, I thought but maybe that's just how kids are now a days, they just mature earlier than we did during my time.

V is now in that place where on the one hand, he likes to talk and act like an adult - like when he insisted on taking me out to dinner on my birthday (T was out of the country for work) in a fine dining restaurant and not only paid but acted like an escort. I can already see the gentleman behind the awkward haircut and unsure gait - while loving to indulge in the silliest physical games on the other.

I shouldn't even have worried, he is more talk than action at the moment as evidenced by how he celebrated his birthday party with his friends.

Like any other children, they only wanted to eat:

Have loads of fun (read: be silly):

Play:

Make noise (WARNING: Ear splitting, watch (and listen) at your own risk - not recommended for those truly musically inclined):
V

S

Hang out:

Pass out (thank god!):

Only to re-fuel:

For more activities.
I guess the biggest change is the company he prefers to keep. Doesn't matter what they do as long as they do it together.

And where did mommy and daddy figure in all these? Well, we too had fun if not more being spectator ions, for a change.

PS - After all that fun, V was grounded on the Monday following his birthday weekend. It turned out that he was not able to do his homework from the previous week for being so excited for his party. There was a lesson to be learned there and a week's grounding should do it. It's ok to have fun as long as we do not forget our responsibilities. We have to do what we have to do and birthdays are no exceptions.