We were lucky that our hotel is inside Ciudad Antigua (why we were recommended to stay there in the first place) as more than anything else, you go to Cartagena to see this place and therefore had the leisure of exploring to our hearts' content - we loved being there so much (and in the hotel) we missed some must-sees (sigh). We took it really easy and just relaxed...dog knows we needed it especially T.
I was literally transported back in time. From the time of the 'Conquistadores', when the women would walk the streets with their parasols up to the time of the drug cartels when people wore breezy white linen and cotton with their panama hats - think: Antonio Banderas' 'Original Sin' (although, the setting was Cuba, it could very well have been Ciudad Antigua - or was it?). It's another world (I really should stop watching period movies).
If it's fine dining you want then it'll have to be inside Ciudad Antigua, most restaurants are situated within the fortress of the 'city' and that's when dining becomes not only a culinary experience (all cuisine is represented) but expensive. Again, given the quality, ambiance and the service...it's worth it. Worth it to you or not as taste is relative, you're really not given much of a choice...you've just got to fork it out.
T and I who are suckers for good deals, found ourselves a restaurant bar called Tamarindo that probably serves the only 'happy hour' (buy one take one) drinks within the 'city'. Real Cuba Libre (with Cuban Rhum plus coke), 2 for around 5,00 Pesos = less than $3.00. It was fortunate that we did as the restaurant serves very good authentic Mediterranean and Caribbean cuisine. The owner is from Spain (Barcelona, I think), Ferrán Vergés who has (semi) retired in Colombia. Highly recommended restaurant serving good food at reasonable prices - by Cartagena standards - and excellent service. Don't miss their Spinach wrap, it's exquisite.
Ciudad Antigua at night is alive with various entertainment, shops, artesania markets and of course, restaurant and bars pulsing with Latino and Caribbean music that lends a festive atmosphere.
T and I who are suckers for good deals, found ourselves a restaurant bar called Tamarindo that probably serves the only 'happy hour' (buy one take one) drinks within the 'city'. Real Cuba Libre (with Cuban Rhum plus coke), 2 for around 5,00 Pesos = less than $3.00. It was fortunate that we did as the restaurant serves very good authentic Mediterranean and Caribbean cuisine. The owner is from Spain (Barcelona, I think), Ferrán Vergés who has (semi) retired in Colombia. Highly recommended restaurant serving good food at reasonable prices - by Cartagena standards - and excellent service. Don't miss their Spinach wrap, it's exquisite.
If you absolutely have to bring something back (for the women) I suggest you buy the breezy white/beige summer dresses, skirts and blouses sold both in the shops in Ciudad Antigua and the market in Bocagrande. These are made of pure Colombian cotton and sold anywhere between $ 35 - 80 - light, breezy, extremely feminine, figure flattering and simple but classy. The artsy bracelets and necklaces made of beads and semi-precious stones maybe a bit cliche-ish but you can sure find ingenious and quite unique designs mixed with silver and leather- between $12 - 100 and sometimes more depending on materials, stones and design. Most importantly, haggle. Haggle, haggle, haggle! They won't get offended and you can actually bring it down to a price which you think is fair. If not, an 'esta bien, no tengo dinero suficiente' with a smile would get you a sympathetic look with a half smile that means it's ok you can go on your way...maybe next time.
Although we were in Cartagena in the week of Semana Santa (just...but not yet) where prices have already been increased in anticipation of the coming of the tourists and hawkers abound, I didn't really feel bothered as these people (hawkers - wearing uniforms with numbers on) are not as persistent as the hawkers in Asia. They leave you alone after a 'no, gracias', again, delivered with a smile. There were in fact already a lot of tourists when we got there but mostly Colombians coming from Bogota and other areas in Colombia that actually made the ambiance naturally festive and less touristic.
As for the emeralds Colombia is known to produce a lot of, you would be better off buying in Bogota.
The hawkers on the beach in Bocagrande were harder to get rid of specially those offering massage, tour packages and beach chairs.
Although we were in Cartagena in the week of Semana Santa (just...but not yet) where prices have already been increased in anticipation of the coming of the tourists and hawkers abound, I didn't really feel bothered as these people (hawkers - wearing uniforms with numbers on) are not as persistent as the hawkers in Asia. They leave you alone after a 'no, gracias', again, delivered with a smile. There were in fact already a lot of tourists when we got there but mostly Colombians coming from Bogota and other areas in Colombia that actually made the ambiance naturally festive and less touristic.
As for the emeralds Colombia is known to produce a lot of, you would be better off buying in Bogota.
The hawkers on the beach in Bocagrande were harder to get rid of specially those offering massage, tour packages and beach chairs.
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