Volcan de Lodo El Totumo, Cartagena

How much would a therapeutic mud bath with full body massage and a personal 'bather' (if there's such a word) that will make sure that the mud is washed off every imaginable crevice of your body - if you allow them- thrown in, cost in a spa? Oh add a personal photographer who takes photos of you at your bidding and as many as your memory card can hold (you don't want your camera muddy, do you?).

Not much, in Cartagena, that is.

Note: No children were hurt in this activity

The massage can last from anywhere between 20 mins to whenever you want and in reality, you can even stay as long as you want in the crater.

This I would really recommend all visitors do. It was such a funny, weird and mind boggling albeit relaxing experience. Before jumping in (no, you don't jump in - you'll be splashing mud on everyone...and that's just rude - guffaw), flashes of 'this must be how it feels drowning in quicksand, only smoother' crossed my mind but then I already saw T & V and a lot of others laughing, yet miraculously not drowning...so, what the heck.

The locals say that the crater is over 200 meters deep but due to the density of the mud, it is more a struggle to sink than to float (my legs kept floating up someone else's nose).

Now, for practical matters:

The tour costs 35,000 Pesos per person (roughly $20) and included hotel pick-up and return (van) lunch at a beach somewhere halfway between Ciudad Antigua and the Volcano (I didn't get the name of the beach) of fish, rice, salad and the usual corn cake(?) with melted cheese inside. It took about 50 minutes to an hour to get to Totumo from Ciudad Antigua. I guess we were lucky that we were just 6 in a van for 12 people including the driver as we managed to stretch out and sleep after the mud bath and massage on the way to the beach and afterwards.

The locals in Totumo make their living on tips. It is customary to give anywhere between 2,000 - 3,000 Pesos = roughly $ 1.00 - 1.50 (some give 1,000 = $0.50 ) for each person that has done some service. Ex (ours):

1. The camera guy (1)
2. The male masseuse (2) - there is after all T, V & myself
3. The bañadoras (bathers) (3) - one for each of us
4. The slippers / shoes guy (1) - right...he makes sure you get the right pair and he just knows which belongs to whom. From the miniature volcano, he would follow you down to the lake with your feet accoutrement, make it ready for you and waiting on the bank when you're done bathing. I thought mine miraculously appeared until I saw him deliver T's and V's. He does it each time he sees someone leaving the volcano for the lake. Remember that the mud renders you unrecognizable...talent, pure talent.

In total, I guess we really didn't spend more than $40 each. We got picked-up at 8:30 am and got back at 3:00 pm - a whole day's trip nonetheless and still had time to jump in the pool at the hotel before happy hour beckoned. Not bad.

I'm glad we chose this over a day trip to Rosario and neighboring islands of mainland Cartagena reputed to have fine white beaches and clear blue water. As I mentioned in an earlier post, we got so relaxed and complacent that the days went by so fast that before we knew it, it was time to go. Besides, we just came from Little Corn, are scheduled to dive in Roatan, Honduras this May, cruise the Bahamas this summer, visit San Andres in the very near future and if we really get lucky, explore the Galapagos (maybe next year, let's see), then I guess...a beach is a beach is a beach. Okay, I managed to convince myself there but I still secretly wish that we could have done both.

This goes in my bucket list.